A complete guide to pearls: choosing the perfect pearls for your jewelry

Pearls have a way of looking simple from a distance and turning out to be surprisingly complex once you start shopping for them. Two white pearl necklaces can look nearly identical side by side and be priced hundreds of euros apart, and the reason usually comes down to type, size, and quality. Here's what actually matters when choosing pearls for your jewelry.

Understanding different types of pearls

The two types you'll come across most often are Akoya and freshwater pearls, and they're different in more ways than price.

• Akoya pearls are cultured in saltwater oysters, mostly around Japan, and are known for their sharp, mirror-like luster and consistently round shape. Each oyster typically produces only one or two pearls, which is part of why Akoya pearls tend to sit at a higher price point. They range roughly from 2mm up to 9.5mm, with 7mm to 8mm being the most popular size for everyday jewelry.
• Freshwater pearls are grown in freshwater mussels, mainly in China, and each mussel can produce multiple pearls at once. That makes them more affordable and available in a much wider range of colors, from soft pastels to deeper natural tones. Freshwater pearls also tend to be more durable day to day, since they're often solid nacre all the way through rather than built around a bead nucleus.
• Others: There are other types worth knowing too. Tahitian pearls come from black-lipped oysters and range from silvery grey to deep, almost black tones. South Sea pearls are the largest and rarest cultured pearls, prized for their size and warm luster, and priced accordingly.

How to buy pearls: what you need to know

A few factors decide whether a pearl is high quality, and none of them are visible from a product photo alone.

• Luster is the most important one. It's the sharpness and depth of the light reflecting off the pearl's surface. A high-luster pearl looks almost mirror-like, while a lower-quality one looks duller or chalky.
• Shape matters for both looks and price. Perfectly round pearls are the most sought after and the most expensive, while slightly off-round or baroque shapes are more affordable without necessarily being lower quality, just different in character.
• Surface quality refers to how clean the pearl's exterior is. Small blemishes are normal and often invisible at a glance, but a heavily marked surface will affect both appearance and value.
• Color and overtone are largely a matter of taste. Akoya pearls typically show white or cream tones with rose, silver, or ivory overtones, while freshwater pearls come in a wider natural color range, including soft pink, lavender, and peach.

A complete pearl size guide: how to choose the right size

Size affects both the look of a piece and how noticeable it is.

• 6mm to 7mm pearls are subtle and versatile, a good choice for everyday studs or a delicate necklace.
• 7mm to 8mm is the most popular range for classic pearl jewelry, offering presence without feeling oversized.
• 8mm to 9mm makes more of a statement, well suited to necklaces or earrings meant to stand out.
• 9.5mm and above is where Akoya pearls become rare and considerably more expensive, while freshwater and South Sea pearls can reach these sizes more easily.

If you're buying a first piece of pearl jewelry, 7mm to 8mm freshwater pearls tend to offer the best balance of classic look, durability, and price.

How to care for your pearls to keep them shining

Pearls are softer and more porous than gemstones like sapphire or diamond, so they need a bit more care to stay looking their best.

Put pearls on last, after applying makeup, perfume, and hairspray, since these products can dull their surface over time. Wipe them gently with a soft cloth after wearing to remove oils and residue. Store them separately from harder jewelry that could scratch them, ideally in a soft pouch rather than loose in a jewelry box. And avoid soaking them in water or cleaning solutions, since pearls can absorb moisture and lose their luster if handled too roughly.

With the right care, a well-chosen pearl piece can easily be worn for decades, which is exactly the kind of jewelry we like to make: pieces set in solid 14 karat recycled gold, built to be worn often and eventually passed down, rather than replaced.

Frequently asked questions

How do I choose the right pearls for jewelry?

Start with your budget and how often you'll wear the piece. Freshwater pearls in the 7mm to 8mm range offer a good balance of classic looks, durability, and price for everyday wear, while Akoya pearls suit those wanting maximum luster and roundness for special pieces.

What types of pearls are available for jewelry?

The main types are Akoya, freshwater, Tahitian, and South Sea pearls, each differing in luster, shape, color range, size, and price.

How are pearls graded?

Pearls are graded on luster, shape, surface quality, color, and size. Higher grades show sharper luster, rounder shapes, and cleaner surfaces, and are priced accordingly.

What is the ideal pearl size for earrings or necklaces?

6mm to 8mm is the most versatile range for both earrings and necklaces, offering a classic look without feeling oversized. Larger sizes from 8mm upward make more of a statement piece.

How should I care for my pearls to ensure they stay beautiful?

Put them on last and take them off first, wipe them with a soft cloth after wear, store them separately from harder jewelry, and avoid exposing them to water, chemicals, or perfume.